www.EnfoStuff.com

emmodg · Joined: 19 Sep 2014 Posts: 29 Location: Virginia

So my first "help" post for my '66 MKI Cortina GT....

New wires, new cap, points, plugs and new coil and what looks to be a new condenser. I hook her all up and I get nothing out of the coil. It's positive ground and I have the "+" side of the coil going to the points. I have what appears to be a decrepit external resistor that is attached to the passenger firewall - it's got two wires going to it with a removable cover. Is this a resistor? I took the resistor out of the loop and went straight to the "-" side of the coil and still no spark.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

zephyrgary · Joined: 03 Aug 2007 Posts: 838 Location: cave creek,az

Not really my forte but have you tried a coil that you know works for sure? Just to rule it out.
_________________
the older i get,the faster i went...

peteleo · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:14 pm Post subject:

I assume the engine is turning over.

First check if there is 12 volts on the negative side of the coil. If ok, remove the distributor cap, with the points closed and ignition on, separate the points. There should be a small spark each time you open the points, if not then the condensor, points, wiring to the points, maybe at fault. Let me know and we'll take it from there.

Pete

emmodg · Joined: 19 Sep 2014 Posts: 29 Location: Virginia

Thanks!

emmodg · Joined: 19 Sep 2014 Posts: 29 Location: Virginia

So - cleaned up the points, re-installed them and set the gap. I tested the wire that "comes into" the ballast resistor and got 12volts. I bypassed the resistor however and ran it to "-" side of coil. (The resistor is way beyond corroded). When I opened the points I got a decent spark. I the. Put the cap back on and sprayed a little ether in the carb and turned the key - nothing! I then took a jump pack and went straight to the "-" side of the coil and turned the key - it actually sputtered on the ether! It didn't run long at all (fuel pump isn't plumbed up yet) but it did technically run! I'm getting a v drop in the wire from the switch I guesss. I don't have any schematics so I'm wondering where I should be checking that wire coming out of the firewall and feeding the coil.

Oh yeah - what's a good shock for these cars.

Thanks!

peteleo · Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:39 pm Post subject:

Mk1 came with an internal resistor in the coil.

Measure the resistance between the - and + side of the coil. Should be between 3-4 Ohms. If your coil reads below 2 Ohms then you would need to purchase a 2-3 Ohm ballast resistor otherwise you would burn the points in no time. Best option would be to purchase a new coil with an internal resistor.

White wire goes to the primary - side of the coil. Black or white/black wire goes on the secondary + side.

With the ignition on, there should be 12 Volts on the - side. When starting the engine the voltage at the - side will drop 1-2 volts which is ok.

Check the spark at the plug. It maybe a good idea to replace if the ignition wires are old.

Try Dave Bean Engineering for the inserts and rear shocks.

Pete

emmodg · Joined: 19 Sep 2014 Posts: 29 Location: Virginia

Cool - thanks!

I thought maybe MKI's had external resistors - the '67 Wagon I have had one on the firewall and the '66 GT has one as well.

Could I just run a Bosch Blue coil I wonder?

Thanks again!

peteleo · Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:47 am Post subject:

Check if it has an internal resistor by measuring the resistance between terminals + and - should be 3 to 4 ohms. Otherwise you would need a ballast resistor.