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[angliagt]

The GT's runs! I decided to replace all of the dash bulbs while
I have all of the guages pulled out.
Now the headlights don't work? I have Cibie headlamp replacements,
with a relay installed.
Any ideas?

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[Dave A]

Did you check to make sure you didn't knock a wire off at the headlight switch? If that's okay you may have to go to the relay and check your powers and grounds. The relay should click when the headlamps are turned on. Did you try the floor mounted dimmer switch to make sure it isnt sticking and whether both the high and low beams are not working? You could also check to make sure you have good connections at the dimmer switch and is also a good place to check for power from the switch and out to headlamps. Just curious, do you have the relay wired in before the dimmer switch or after the dimmer switch? Is the relay wired to control high and/or low beams?

[angliagt]

I gave in & took it to an auto electric shop.
He spent about 2 hours on it - a lot of ground
problems.The relays up on the front of the
right front fender.
When I drove it to the shop the clutch wouldn't
completely disengage.I had to turn off the engine
at every Red light.Got to figure out what's going on.
The engine runs really good!

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[Dave A]

Did you check the clutch fluid? Check for drip from the bottom of the slave cylinder or out the back of the clutch master under the dash. In any case you should be able to get it working by getting some air out of it. I find the easiest way to do this is to bleed it uphill so to speak. By this I mean remove the clutch master cyl cap make sure there is some fluid in there. Reach down and pull the clutch fork forward until the rod is shoved fully into the slave cyl (not so fast as to push fluid out all over the place but enough that you can see air bubbles rising up out of the master cylinder) Do this a few times while ensuring the fluid level doesnt drop low enough to get air back into the system. I find this the best way to bleed the clutch on these cars. I have never had good luck with trying to bleed them the normal way. When you think about it it's easier to get air bubbles to rise then try and push them downhill and out of the system. This should/may get you running so you can drive her home.

[angliagt]

Dave,

It looks like the bushing that attaches the slave
cylinder to the clutch pedal is worn.Do you know
what the dimensions are for a replacement?
It runs! It drives!,& it only took 2-1/2 years!

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[angliagt]

My mistake - I need one that goes between the
shouldered bolt, & the eye of the clutch m/c rod.

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[Dave A]

I'll have a look in the shop tommorrow and see what I can come up with.

[angliagt]

Man!I looked again - evidently the '67's different.
It has a stud on the pedal that the eye end of the rod
slips over.I need to get a spacer that goes over the stud.
If all else fails,I guess that I could take the pedal off,
& take it to a auto parts/hardware store & get the part.
Sorry to be such a pain,but I keep the car at my Mother's
house,that's abot 3 miles away.

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[Dave A]

Not sure about the spacer. I didnt look at my cars but i think it's a plastic bushing that fits into the rod eye. That piece is 1/2" I.D. x 9/16" O.D. x 3/16" wide. Is that what you mean?

[angliagt]

It turns out to be 11/16" ID & 1/2" OD.
I'm embarresed to discover a plastic piece in
the garage that worked (after spending 1/2 hour at -
- the hardware store).
Again,sorry for wasting your time.

- Doug
_________________
Remember - Nobody EVER says "COOL PRIUS!"

[Dave A]