Anyone know of any good engine Builders in the lower mainland that have done kent engines before?
Might be looking into getting my xflow built before I throw her into the Anglia.
Thanks
Engine Builders - Vancouver Area?
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Brett Wilkie
- Posts: 1829
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:42 pm
- Location: Vancouver British Columbia Canada
There is a fellow named Hillary that works out of Magnem in Burnaby, He has a lot of experience with English cars and has done work for me in the past. I think the last time I checked he was working part time so I hope he hasn't retired yet??
http://www.magnemengine.ca/
http://www.magnemengine.ca/
Anglia 100e modified
Prefect 100e stock
Prefect 100e stock
I was just going to suggest Magnem as well, the work they do for us is always good, they do rebuilds for the Honda, BMW etc dealerships - dunno if they have done Kent engines but they (Kent) are as basic as can be to rebuild.Brett Wilkie wrote:There is a fellow named Hillary that works out of Magnem in Burnaby, He has a lot of experience with English cars and has done work for me in the past. I think the last time I checked he was working part time so I hope he hasn't retired yet??
http://www.magnemengine.ca/
Called them, he's still there.
I have a cam and a recurved distributor with some heavy duty valve springs the P.O of my engine gave me.. have to check those out.
Any idea what the realistic HP/TQ jump would be on my GT motor with a ported head/cam and twin 40's?
Also speaking of 40's, anyone got some that are already setup for a 1600?
I have a cam and a recurved distributor with some heavy duty valve springs the P.O of my engine gave me.. have to check those out.
Any idea what the realistic HP/TQ jump would be on my GT motor with a ported head/cam and twin 40's?
Also speaking of 40's, anyone got some that are already setup for a 1600?
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Brett Wilkie
- Posts: 1829
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:42 pm
- Location: Vancouver British Columbia Canada
[quote="Langlia"]Called them, he's still there.
I have a cam and a recurved distributor with some heavy duty valve springs the P.O of my engine gave me.. have to check those out.
Any idea what the realistic HP/TQ jump would be on my GT motor with a ported head/cam and twin 40's?
Good question, many people overestimate the power of their engines so it's hard to say. Check around the internet for opinions, here is a copy of what Burton indicates about the crossflow.
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guide ... guide.html
Ford Kent Crossflow Tuning Guide
Ford Kent Crossflow Engine
This engine was introduced in the Ford Mk2 Cortina and differs from the earlier units by having the carb on the left and the exhaust on the right - hence, ‘crossflow.’
They also varied from Pre-X/Flows in that the combustion chamber was shifted from the head to the bowl of the piston and were know as BIP engines (Bowl In Piston). Early heads also feature a small combustion chamber in the head too.
Early blocks bore the casting marks 681F and capacities you’ll find are, 940, 1098, 1298 and 1599. You’ll find a X/Flow fitted to Mk1/2 Escorts, Mk2/3 Cortinas, Mk1/2 Capris plus late Transits. Most cars came with a single choke Ford IV carb although the 1.3 and 1.6 GT models had a 32/36 DGV Weber twin choke.
1970 saw the big change to the thicker-walled 711M block with square mains caps, large diameter followers, wider cam lobes and modified crank seal. Also, the head was now completely flat.
There are two main capacities of 711M, determined by block height - the 1600 is 7/16" taller and you can see the difference between it and the 1300 by the space between the water pump and head. Also, the 1300 has 711M 6015 AA cast in the side whereas the 1600 ends in BA.
The engine was also fitted to 1.3 and 1.6 Mk1 Fiestas in the 80’s with a 771M casting. These feature no side engine mounts plus a shortened water pump and timing chain/crank area.
The final versions, OHV, HCS and Endura are similar but shorter versions and share very few if any inter-changeable parts and reverted back to the original pre-X/flow design of a three bearing crank.
Kents are quite easy to tune to GT spec, which usually means the biggest capacity block, slightly bigger valves (usually taken care of with a performance head), GT cam/A1, free flow exhaust and twin choke Weber - you should see around 80-90bhp. Switch to a Kent BCF2 or a 224 and you’ll be approaching 110bhp. For all builds we would recommend ARP rod bolts and replacement of the front pulley for a one piece steel item. The valve train should be strengthened with steel posts, spacers and rocker shaft to cope with the additional stresses caused by high lift cams, HD valve springs and higher revs. A double timing chain kit should also be fitted for the same reasons. Performance heads are available in both iron and brand new aluminium and all can be ordered with unleaded seats.
You can use the old Cosworth A-series cam profiles too, which are long duration and lower lift. However the current Kent Cams, high lift and short duration type are friendlier on emissions with less lobe overlap resulting in reduced un-burnt fuel down the exhaust.
Add a stage 2 head and Kent 224 and you’ll be pushing 115bhp although the favourite X/Flow cam is the 234 for 118-120bhp. You should get this with a re-jetted twin choke although twin 40 DCOE Webers would be better. This is an all round great cam and engine spec for the road.
A 244 cam and stage 3 head results in 135-145bhp, although, these figures are best achieved with a recommended maximum 83.5mm bore and forged Accralite pistons, giving 1700cc. There is a cheaper option in that the compression can be raised using modified 1300 pistons in the 1600 engine, giving a ratio of around 10.3:1. Capacity is easily increased with cast pistons available up to +0.090" oversize which will give 1696cc.
40 DCOEs tend to be on their maximum choke sizes at this stage so many switch to 45s. However this does result in lower gas speed and less low down torque, which is important on the road.
All side draughts need a side exit distributor cap (available for Lucas and Bosch distributors) to clear the inlet manifold and for convenience it’s best to fit an electronic ignition kit such as an Aldon Ignitor or Lumenition. For a complete ignition solution, our constant energy, non-vacuum modified Bosch distributor and coil kit is ideal for most modified engines.
This is about as far as you want to go on the road since you’ll be stretching the 7500-8000rpm limit of the crank. After this and you’ll ideally need steel components, which we have a superb range including cranks, rods, flywheels and forged pistons. To complement these we also have full-race spec heads to take the Kent as far as possible on the race track - currently that’s about 185bhp+.
I have a cam and a recurved distributor with some heavy duty valve springs the P.O of my engine gave me.. have to check those out.
Any idea what the realistic HP/TQ jump would be on my GT motor with a ported head/cam and twin 40's?
Good question, many people overestimate the power of their engines so it's hard to say. Check around the internet for opinions, here is a copy of what Burton indicates about the crossflow.
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guide ... guide.html
Ford Kent Crossflow Tuning Guide
Ford Kent Crossflow Engine
This engine was introduced in the Ford Mk2 Cortina and differs from the earlier units by having the carb on the left and the exhaust on the right - hence, ‘crossflow.’
They also varied from Pre-X/Flows in that the combustion chamber was shifted from the head to the bowl of the piston and were know as BIP engines (Bowl In Piston). Early heads also feature a small combustion chamber in the head too.
Early blocks bore the casting marks 681F and capacities you’ll find are, 940, 1098, 1298 and 1599. You’ll find a X/Flow fitted to Mk1/2 Escorts, Mk2/3 Cortinas, Mk1/2 Capris plus late Transits. Most cars came with a single choke Ford IV carb although the 1.3 and 1.6 GT models had a 32/36 DGV Weber twin choke.
1970 saw the big change to the thicker-walled 711M block with square mains caps, large diameter followers, wider cam lobes and modified crank seal. Also, the head was now completely flat.
There are two main capacities of 711M, determined by block height - the 1600 is 7/16" taller and you can see the difference between it and the 1300 by the space between the water pump and head. Also, the 1300 has 711M 6015 AA cast in the side whereas the 1600 ends in BA.
The engine was also fitted to 1.3 and 1.6 Mk1 Fiestas in the 80’s with a 771M casting. These feature no side engine mounts plus a shortened water pump and timing chain/crank area.
The final versions, OHV, HCS and Endura are similar but shorter versions and share very few if any inter-changeable parts and reverted back to the original pre-X/flow design of a three bearing crank.
Kents are quite easy to tune to GT spec, which usually means the biggest capacity block, slightly bigger valves (usually taken care of with a performance head), GT cam/A1, free flow exhaust and twin choke Weber - you should see around 80-90bhp. Switch to a Kent BCF2 or a 224 and you’ll be approaching 110bhp. For all builds we would recommend ARP rod bolts and replacement of the front pulley for a one piece steel item. The valve train should be strengthened with steel posts, spacers and rocker shaft to cope with the additional stresses caused by high lift cams, HD valve springs and higher revs. A double timing chain kit should also be fitted for the same reasons. Performance heads are available in both iron and brand new aluminium and all can be ordered with unleaded seats.
You can use the old Cosworth A-series cam profiles too, which are long duration and lower lift. However the current Kent Cams, high lift and short duration type are friendlier on emissions with less lobe overlap resulting in reduced un-burnt fuel down the exhaust.
Add a stage 2 head and Kent 224 and you’ll be pushing 115bhp although the favourite X/Flow cam is the 234 for 118-120bhp. You should get this with a re-jetted twin choke although twin 40 DCOE Webers would be better. This is an all round great cam and engine spec for the road.
A 244 cam and stage 3 head results in 135-145bhp, although, these figures are best achieved with a recommended maximum 83.5mm bore and forged Accralite pistons, giving 1700cc. There is a cheaper option in that the compression can be raised using modified 1300 pistons in the 1600 engine, giving a ratio of around 10.3:1. Capacity is easily increased with cast pistons available up to +0.090" oversize which will give 1696cc.
40 DCOEs tend to be on their maximum choke sizes at this stage so many switch to 45s. However this does result in lower gas speed and less low down torque, which is important on the road.
All side draughts need a side exit distributor cap (available for Lucas and Bosch distributors) to clear the inlet manifold and for convenience it’s best to fit an electronic ignition kit such as an Aldon Ignitor or Lumenition. For a complete ignition solution, our constant energy, non-vacuum modified Bosch distributor and coil kit is ideal for most modified engines.
This is about as far as you want to go on the road since you’ll be stretching the 7500-8000rpm limit of the crank. After this and you’ll ideally need steel components, which we have a superb range including cranks, rods, flywheels and forged pistons. To complement these we also have full-race spec heads to take the Kent as far as possible on the race track - currently that’s about 185bhp+.
Anglia 100e modified
Prefect 100e stock
Prefect 100e stock
Brett pretty much nailed it there, I went with a 1760 once, full meal deal but tuning the 40's to go with it was a nightmare and even once it was properly jetted etc I didn't find it be as smooth as the 1700 I built and not even close to being as smooth as the many non-crossflows I built, so you may want to 'just' go to 1700 (or less).
Mind you, that was back when the cost of a set of 83.5mm pistons was less than $100!
Mind you, that was back when the cost of a set of 83.5mm pistons was less than $100!
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Brett Wilkie
- Posts: 1829
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:42 pm
- Location: Vancouver British Columbia Canada
1600 in the Anglia will certainly do the trick, even without much 'tuning'.Langlia wrote:Yea good read, think there's something in my old book about that. Sideways, was thinking of just keeping it at 1600.
People tend to forget how light 'our' cars are so even a small increase in capacity/torque/hp makes a difference.
I know I noticed a difference when I put that S2000 engine in my Cortina!
Yes, that was me, it looks a little cleaner now, tidied up the heater 'bubble' area and put a proper decal on so people will know its a genuine Frod.Langlia wrote:Believe the gentleman I got the it from said it was a "Street" cam.
Sideways, was your Cortina at the Van System show? I believe I saw one sitting near the Morgans and looked like it had a Honda motor.
Yea super light, that's why I'd like a little extra
