Condensers for 100e
Condensers for 100e
Is a condenser a very important part or is it a universal part that is vague. I have been having ignition problems. The car idles perfectly but the when I push the gas peddle it chokes itself. I replaced points, plugs, and rotor but left the condenser. the Car idles perfectly but the minite I step on the accelerator it "chokes" the butterfly valve cuts off the air. Could I have burnt Valves? Clogged jets? or bad condenser? I use Marine additive to help balance the Ethanol. The 1 and 2 cylinders are running hot. 3 & 4 are in good shape. I recently could not drive the car because it would not accellerate. Is it my carb? WHich I think. It's been 6000 miles since my last tune up.
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
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enfoprefect
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Does not sound like condenser or bad valves. You say the butterfly cuts off the air. What is the car? Is this an automatic choke? If so then I would bet it is the problem. How tight does it close when cold? May just need adjustment. If I misunderstood and the choke is not closing then clogged jets would be my next guess. It also is possible that your distributor is not advancing properly. To test that, try to increase rpm very slowly with no load (out of gear). It should do so even if not advancing although it could get a bit rough at much rpm. Check those things and answer the above questions and we will proceed further to find the problem.
Don,
First check to see if the distributor advances smoothly with a timing light. If the timing mark jumps around while increasing the rpm then either the weights needs oiling or the springs are worn.
If sorted, then check for air leaks around the inlet manifold and carb esp.
the throttle shaft. Spray some soapy water around the inlet and carb throttle shaft while the engine is idling at normal temp. If the engine speed chances while spraying then you've located the leaky air source.
As mentioned before, these carbs are simple and in most cases are easily rebuilt unless the carb shaft is badly worn. A machine shop can insert shaft bushes.
I have a rebuilt kit for that carb p/n 100E-9502 It doesn't include a needle valve ass'y.
Pete
First check to see if the distributor advances smoothly with a timing light. If the timing mark jumps around while increasing the rpm then either the weights needs oiling or the springs are worn.
If sorted, then check for air leaks around the inlet manifold and carb esp.
the throttle shaft. Spray some soapy water around the inlet and carb throttle shaft while the engine is idling at normal temp. If the engine speed chances while spraying then you've located the leaky air source.
As mentioned before, these carbs are simple and in most cases are easily rebuilt unless the carb shaft is badly worn. A machine shop can insert shaft bushes.
I have a rebuilt kit for that carb p/n 100E-9502 It doesn't include a needle valve ass'y.
Pete
Carb
Thanks Guys, re: anglia 100e CARB. the car will only idle. the minute I step on the gas (RPM) it cuts out. so the testing is limited. I am not a mechanic and don't understand timing lights, I can replace parts, I might be able to clean and reassemble a carb. but I can't adjust it. That is where I just call someone. I think It is a carb issue however. Peteleo, thanks for the advice on air leaks I will check that also because that may be the main issue and the dirty carb is a Ruse. A quick view of the manifold didn't show any leaks. However I will get out the mirror and the soapy water. to Check underneath. Glad to hear that the condenser is not relevant. I will try some things this upcomming weekend. Thanks again.
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
There are two types of condenser fitted to 100Es: those for the D shaped distributor up to early 1960; and those fitted to the round distributor from early 1960 onwards. Condensers for the latter are available as it was also used throughout the BMC and Hillman ranges. It doesn't actually fit the earlier distributor as the mounting lug is different, but this merely requires the base plate to be drilled and the condenser attached by a self-tapping screw.
The symptoms you describe suggest a blocked main jet: this is the haxagonal brass nut on the engine side of the carb. I'd suggest removing it and blowing through it before you get involved in more exotic procedures. Also check that the screen wiper hoses are all intact and not split as these can give a major air leak into the system and a very weak mixture, particlarly on Nos 3 and 4 cylinders.
The symptoms you describe suggest a blocked main jet: this is the haxagonal brass nut on the engine side of the carb. I'd suggest removing it and blowing through it before you get involved in more exotic procedures. Also check that the screen wiper hoses are all intact and not split as these can give a major air leak into the system and a very weak mixture, particlarly on Nos 3 and 4 cylinders.
carb
Thanks Jan. You confirmed the fact that it will be okay to drill a new hole for the new type condenser which I had considered. Also thanks for the tip on the hexagonal screw cleaning. These Marine additives seem to clog the carbs up pretty badly. TA
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
Ongoing problem accelerating.
I finally figured out the problem with my acceleration. It was a combination of distributor cap carbon element worn away and a plugged accelerator pump in the carb. I bought a reconditioned carb from small fords and the car now runs like it did in 1959, wonderful. Is it normal to burn through a distributor cap every 5000 miles? 
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
PS
Along the way I also replaced the sparks, points, rotor, condenser (new type, new hole) Dist. cap, Fuel Filter and Carbuerator. Now that it's running it's going into storage waiting for next spring.
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
Re: Ongoing problem accelerating.
No, nor have I ever heard of one burning out before. Falling out, yes, but not burning out.DonG wrote:Is it normal to burn through a distributor cap every 5000 miles?
Burn out
By burnout I mean: Inside the distributor cap there is a spring loaded carbon plunger in the center comming from the coil, it touches the rotor, this was burned back at least 3/8 inch, and no longer came in contact with the rotor. Is it common for this item to burn or melt back? Could it be a result of a lack of a functioning condenser, possibly? Is the condenser supposed to absorb excess electrical charges? And not having a fully functional condenser the carbon plunger burned due to excess heat? Just wondering.
Over the Rainbow you will find an Anglia!
Actually, I knew what you meant, and my reply referred to the carbon brush.
The condenser does two things:
1 as the points open, arcing will occur until the gap is wide enough to stop LT current flow. This has two results: the points burn out rapidly and the magnetic flux within the coil collapses slowly, producing a weak HT spark. As the points open, the remaining current is absorbed by the condenser so avoiding these issues
2 as the points open further, the condenser discharges the voltage it has just acquired, sending it back the opposite way through the coil, causing what's called a back e.m.f. and the very rapid collapse of the magnetic field, which in turn produces a much higher HT voltage, up to bout 25,000 volts.
The condenser would have no effect on the carbon brush. All I can assume is that the brush was sticking in the cap and not contacting the rotor face, so causing arcing over the gap to burn the brush.
The condenser does two things:
1 as the points open, arcing will occur until the gap is wide enough to stop LT current flow. This has two results: the points burn out rapidly and the magnetic flux within the coil collapses slowly, producing a weak HT spark. As the points open, the remaining current is absorbed by the condenser so avoiding these issues
2 as the points open further, the condenser discharges the voltage it has just acquired, sending it back the opposite way through the coil, causing what's called a back e.m.f. and the very rapid collapse of the magnetic field, which in turn produces a much higher HT voltage, up to bout 25,000 volts.
The condenser would have no effect on the carbon brush. All I can assume is that the brush was sticking in the cap and not contacting the rotor face, so causing arcing over the gap to burn the brush.