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Hey guys just wondering what can be done to make my steering feel more precise on my 65 cortina.

First here's what I have done

New stud and bushes
New tie rod ends
Rebuilt corsair type ball joints using the amsteer kits
New poly bushes all around using forged track arms
Wheel bearings properly adjusted.
Strut mounts converted to Volvo 240 using Sachs strut inserts for same Volvo 240
Alignment set to dead zero toe
Tyre pressures 32 all around
Steering box filled with Lucas 80-90
Idler arm is very tight, no play

I feel as if I've done everything and my slop is only in my steering gears. What can I do?

It is a deluxe steering box. I would not mind swapping it for a gt or lotus ratio box.
Is it possible to rebuild the boxes and get rid of play?

How much play is acceptable? Mines not terrible but I've gotten used to driving 914s which have the nicest steering ever, so I'm kinda picky. I also tend to drive very hard in corners.

Last resort would be fitting a rack? Finding one to mount rear of the cross member and turn the right way has been challenging.

Steering box is easy to rebuilt. The manual will explain step by step instructions. All parts available in the U.S. i.e gaskets, or make them yourself, oil seal, roller bearings and races. Shaft bushing are usually still re-usable. Upper steering shaft bushing may need replacement.
GT/ Lotus / deluxe S/boxes are identical but ratios are different. Book shows 15.5 : 1 don't know for which model.

Why are you running 0 toe-in? Usually there is some amount of toe-in.

Cheers,
Bob

It usually gives a car a better turn in feel and makes it less twitchy in a corner. Works very well in old porsches especially 914's. Im not sure its the best setting on my car, was going to try the usual 16th toe in for my drive up to carlisle. Yes i like to tinker. But i guess anybody into english fords must be the same.

Cortina MK1 struts are standard fitted to vertical , they should come a bit forward below . Makes it steer much better .

Harrie

Harrie D wrote:Cortina MK1 struts are standard fitted to vertical , they should come a bit forward below . Makes it steer much better .

Harrie

How much is a 'bit' Harrie - and how do you get them forward?

I think Harrie means approx. -2 degrees caster.

Sideways wrote:

Harrie D wrote:Cortina MK1 struts are standard fitted to vertical , they should come a bit forward below . Makes it steer much better .

Harrie

How much is a 'bit' Harrie - and how do you get them forward?

Two ways to gain more negative castor, move the wheel forward but this puts more stress on the inner control arm bushings and changes the position of the wheel in the fender opening to maybe create clearance problems? Or
Move the strut top rearwards but you would have to get adjustable top mounts which isn't a bad thing anyways if you are playing around with your suspension settings. I can't say myself but I would think that there is lots of info on some of the Cortina Forums. Don't forget that the extra Neg. Castor is great for stability and self centering on the steering but will increase the input needed to steer the car, especially when parking.

Brett Wilkie wrote:

Sideways wrote:

Harrie D wrote:Cortina MK1 struts are standard fitted to vertical , they should come a bit forward below . Makes it steer much better .

Harrie

How much is a 'bit' Harrie - and how do you get them forward?

Two ways to gain more negative castor, move the wheel forward but this puts more stress on the inner control arm bushings and changes the position of the wheel in the fender opening to maybe create clearance problems? Or
Move the strut top rearwards but you would have to get adjustable top mounts which isn't a bad thing anyways if you are playing around with your suspension settings. I can't say myself but I would think that there is lots of info on some of the Cortina Forums. Don't forget that the extra Neg. Castor is great for stability and self centering on the steering but will increase the input needed to steer the car, especially when parking.

I have been looking at lots of the forums but other than the Australian ones, extreme and expensive, or the British ones - cheap but hard to source items, haven't seen much.

I'm used to the 'armstrong' steering so that's not a problem, I may go the adj top mounts route as I could dial in the camber as well (or screw everything up completely!)

Sorry , was extremely busy last year .
The most common thing is to shorten the swaybar or bring the swaybar mountings a bit forward .
But many years ago a friend wanted new Koni front shocks in his Cortina MK1 and we couldnot get them at that moment , we tried Cortina MK2 Koni shocks and they fitted the leg without a problem , the only problem was the top mountings as the top of the shocks are different .
We fitted the MK2 top mounts and enlarged the hole in the innerwing sideways to the rear and inside making the top of the strut gone backwards .
This was the best steering Cortina Mk1 around .

Harrie

sounds like you gave it bit more castor! did you use the silent bloc top mounts from a late mk2 or the bearing type? i dont have my mk1 any more but im sure ill get another one. i found using early-mid 80's volvo strut inserts and mounts to be simple enough. parts are better than the old ford stuff and much cheaper!

We used the later type topmounts .

Harrie

I used Volvo 240 strut tops and drilled and slotted the holes to give some negative camber.. Worked just fine..