Are you sure that you want such a cam with that power range? I know that crossflows thrive on lift but now you have to modify the pistons to suite and you have to think about the strain on your valve gear too. Power range 3000 to 8000 might become tiring to drive on the streets but I could be wrong as I have not tried one on? I drove a Fiesta for a time with this 280 degree cam in it and it was a delight to drive and the engine didn't have to be balanced as the needed revs were not crazy.

I have been experimenting a little with the local Shadbolt cam grinds available and I did put a high lift cam (near .400) in my crossflow with an alloy FLAT head, I did an assembled plasticine valve/piston clearance test and found that it was a little close for comfort so I had the (1300GT) pistons pockets machined down further. I am sorry that I can't recall the figures now? I have not yet had that car out on the road so I can't comment on the performance yet. A couple of years ago I had a discussion with Barry at Shadbolt Cams and we came up with the idea to use the 270 degree .398 lift grind decision for a street car, the duration was the same as a stock GT cam but with higher lift. The hope is for good lower end torque without having to rev the shit out of it on the top end.
Barry has been unwell the last year or so and I am never sure how long Shadbolt will continue to function as a business so I had them do me a few different cams to keep in my parts supply.
I think the next engine I put together will be an uprated/ported flat head1700 and I will use the 280 degree lower lift cam so I can save a bit on avoiding extra machine work, besides it felt great in my old Fiesta. Time will tell.
As far as the cylinder head goes you might find it easier to just bite the bullet and get an alloy one. The alloy head is very easy to port, comes with hardened inserts, bronze guides and the valves are of the uprated GT size. I bought mine from Dave Bean but I think the Canadian Dollar was in better shape when I did.
