www.EnfoStuff.com

Nice work, Brett, fabricating a this new cross member is much stronger than using a light weight 107E c/m.

Thanks Pete, I just hope that my welding holds out but a crossflow is not that torquey anyway. The BMW engine mounts are hydraulic oil filled so I don't know what affect that will have if any?

I have not updated my activity lately but here are a few things I achieved in the last 6 months, the most important thing is that I had sold my Vancouver house last year and I finally moved my project 100e cars up to the Sunshine Coast in June. I drove one and the other two were shipped on flat deck. I had been spending most of my time on The Coast anyway so it will be nice to actually now have the cars here to work on. Before I could bring the cars up I had to first build a garage, here are a few pics of the garage, I made sure that I will have some bench/working space and it will be well lit and insulated for the dark Winter. I even put some French doors and a deck on the ocean facing side for additional natural light.






With the cars now here I decided to get back to work on them, I found a nice pair of old Leather roadster seats and installed those in favour of the oversized Chevy Cruze seats that I was going to use, they were too big anyway.





The most recent thing I did was to again remove the transmission to install the alloy flywheel with it's oversized clutch and high torque starter motor, I bought the whole package from Dave Bean and they were great to deal with.

Anyway there is much more to do mechanically, that should be reasonably easy for me but finding a body man/painter is likely going to be a hurdle?

Nice view,

Could try and tackle most of the bodywork yourself? Not sure if you want to get overspray all in your new shop or not, but painting isn't that bad. Just need some good exhaust fans. I used a box fan with a furnace filter to catch the paint. The filler and sanding work is super tedious but lots of money to be saved. Especially if you have the time.

Did a base coat clear coat recently.

The base didn't seem to hang around in the air like single stage does. The clear on the other hand, got foggy quick.

I don't have much experience painting with proper equipment but I guess I could learn? I already have a compressor in the garage so that would be a start. I have to teach myself to be a bit more patient when it comes to bodywork too, thankfully there is very little to do. I hope to make progress in the coming months, If I get the shell ready to paint there is a local body shop that MIGHT take on the spray job.

Brett Wilkie wrote:I don't have much experience painting with proper equipment but I guess I could learn? I already have a compressor in the garage so that would be a start. I have to teach myself to be a bit more patient when it comes to bodywork too, thankfully there is very little to do. I hope to make progress in the coming months, If I get the shell ready to paint there is a local body shop that MIGHT take on the spray job.

I have painted a couple myself and the results were fine - BUT - prep is the biggest part of the job (yes, I know everyone knows this - or should know this).

The best paint job in the world will never hide any errors or blemishes - these days I leave that part of it to the experts, even small jobs.

If you can't find an actual bodyshop up there, maybe a boatbuilder?

Maybe a boat builder could be an idea, I don't mind spending a bit and I do have some time to check things out so it would be great if I could get this thing on the road in 2018?? I have heard that there are a few talented people around, it just a matter of investigating and organizing it I suppose.

It has been quite a while since I did any major work to my modified Anglia as I have been devoting most of my time to my stock green Anglia. This summer I did get my body panels back from the body shop though, I initially told them to take their time and do my stuff in between jobs and they took that to heart by taking almost two years to do it.



Getting all the body gaps sort of even was a bit of a time consuming job, I had to dangle the doors from my ceiling lifting hook to install those single handed.



I tried a test fitting of the front grill and bumpers, the grill just clears the electric fan by 1/4 inch.



I started the dashboard reassembly, I had to initially do some disassembly to it to install my front fender bolts from the inside of the car.


There were some other jobs to do as well on the Webers because I had left the fuel sit so long in them but that's another post.

looking good brett,,,I have to ask, regarding the grill, did you remove every other vertical bar? It looks menacing! I like it. How did you mount the front bumper guards? I have been thinking of hangin' something off of those tapped holes in the front frame rails.

Looking great!

mark wrote: Fri Sep 25, 2020 3:35 pm looking good brett,,,I have to ask, regarding the grill, did you remove every other vertical bar? It looks menacing! I like it. How did you mount the front bumper guards? I have been thinking of hangin' something off of those tapped holes in the front frame rails.

Yes I did remove every second blade on the grill, I have a number of grills here and that one had a twisted/damaged blade so I thought I would experiment by cutting out the damaged part. I still may use one of these other grills depending on the clearance to the fan in front of the rad.



I bought those Bugeye Sprite rear bumpers last year when I was vacationing in the U.S. from this place although I see that his prices have gone up. https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/rea ... -overrider I made/welded up some brackets to fit them to the original threaded holes in the 100e frame, I think I made them light enough to bend before the actual bumper is damaged.

While the Anglia was sitting dormant for almost two years the fuel went off and the crossflow ran quite badly, I did clean out the tank and use fresh fuel but the engine idled poorly. I found the Webers dripped fuel and there was also air leaking in around the throttle shafts as the original leather seals were still in there from back in the 1960s. I decided to do a full rebuild as they now needed a good cleaning anyway, I also ordered two "cold start delete kits" to block the cold start circuit. I never used the choke on my DCOE equipped cars so I thought I might as well eliminate that as a cause of trouble, apparently that circuit is noted for leaking fuel and or air making the carb tuning difficult to impossible.
I did a little research and found these modern seals out of the U.S. that would be perfect for the DCOE throttle shaft, the seals are double lipped and are suitable for oil and temperature.



My Webers are the older type with the brass throttle shafts but I was pleased to find the bearings in great shape and the softer brass shafts were not at all twisted.



I am happy to report that the crossflow now starts and runs fine but I did notice the the additional friction created by the modern seals is higher than original, the internal DCOE throttle return spring does not close the throttle 100% my setup has an external spring as well so it is a non issue in my case.

Amazing job Brett, you should be very proud of yourself.

1970 cortina GT wrote: Wed Sep 30, 2020 7:52 am Amazing job Brett, you should be very proud of yourself.

Thanks, I think the next hurdle will be to find someone local to me that can/will paint the car in a reasonable amount of time.

This not necessarily for my modified Anglia but rather a using up parts exercise.
So we are all being Covid careful these days and it is affording me a lot more time to play in the garage. I have been looking at some of the spare bits and pieces around here and decided to thin out the junk. I have a pair of Mk1 Cortina GT struts and track control arms that I was never going to use because if used in a 100e the short Mk1 track arms would make for way too much positive camber as well as the anti roll bar being out of position, also the ball joint being in the steering arm of the Cortina strut makes it unusable on the much longer 100e track control arm.







Here you can see the difference in length and ball joint type between the stock 100e track arm compared to the Mk1 Cortina arm.







Like my other project I will convert the 100e track control arm to the shorter 105e ball studs.

The nice thing though is that the Mk1 Cortina strut has the same spindle angle as a 100e strut so I thought if I could use it I wouldn't have to resort to expensive strut top mounts to restore the camber back to acceptable.
I removed the ball joint from the Mk1 steering arm and decided to make an insert that would accept a 105e ball stud mounted in a 100e track control arm.




I had my hobby machinist friend make these inserts to a precision fit but to finish the tapered hole I did buy this ball joint reamer and it worked beautifully, the ball stud fits very well.


I have not yet decided if I should weld the inserts in or not? They are a really good fit as is so in the meantime I made up a small spacer that fits inside the steering arm, when I use that in conjunction with the original shims it is a zero tolerance fit.




It now will fit a 100e control arm but before I complete it I might enlist a Blacksmith to adjust the steering arm to a flatter angle to avoid bump steer. I will post more on that later, I have to order some coil over kits from Burtons to finish the struts and I might use these on my stock 100e for the disc brake advantage.